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- Jan 24, 2022
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- 1,081
The first step is to change the way you see nature, understand that vibrancy and iridescence equals high energy, find this energy and collect it, cutting grass and leaves are a fine start going into nature and exploring with a big collecting bag is not just fun but will bring your composting to the next level.
It is about gathering life force from the surroundings and concentrating them in one spot.
Black sometimes slimy soil can be found in nature around sources of natural water and under/next to huge boulders in some cracks under rocks is often seedless. (no weeds) this soil is very useful partially because of its microbiome and that its already composted humus.
Morning urine should be collected in whatever bottle you want preferably wide mouth lol.
Poop if you want to go all the way but preferably be healthy so you don't excrete poisons. (Like meds and McDonald's)
Azomite for the lazy, Ormus from sea water for people that know how and a mix of both for a wider spectrum of minerals.
If you have space just build a chicken coop and get 5 chicks there is no excuse its the best business you'll ever start for your own health. (collect their poop for compost and eat their eggs, feed them with the garden + scraps and grains)
Collect enough starting matter from the surroundings you have and put the plant matter, natural soil, mineral extracts, Urine, chicken, cow, horse, camel human poop into a 1,5x1,5m open box with walls on both sides and back but not top and front, a simple composter.
It needs to be at least 1x1 meter or the composting won't work as well.
Add a thermostat to the pile and watch the temperature rise to 50-60c, while its "burning" the microbes are tearing everything apart until most of it becomes humus.
"Humus also plays a major role in soil structure and therefore in the circulation and storage of gases and water Humus, the most stable part of organic matter, binds closely with the mineral matrix of the soil and in particular clays, forming structured assemblages commonly called “clay-humic complex” CHC. These particles are globally negatively charged, and together they create an electric field in the soil solution. It is the combination of these electric fields that causes the orientation of the particles and explains why soluble ions such as nitrate, which is also negatively charged, are pushed away from the solid particles, making it highly mobile in the soil allowing it to be so easily dragged along by the soil water. Conversely, positive ions in solution such as calcium or potassium will stay close to the CHC particles where the electric field is the strongest. These particles, through their ability to bind together, structure the soil creating micro and macro porosities, a veritable labyrinth that allows air and water to circulate in the soil. This structure also provides the soil with stability against environmental damage such as: rain, soil compaction caused by the passage of agricultural machinery, etc… “A soil that is well-balanced in organic matter through regular inputs will therefore restructure itself quicker, for example when agricultural machinery passes through” explains Olivier Cor. Organic matter and the associated flora and fauna also give it a more natural resistance to various sources of stress and not just mechanical stress but also natural such as: heavy rainfall, drought, erosion."
Wikipedia on Humus,
"In classical soil science, humus is the dark organic matter in soil that is formed by the decomposition of plant and animal matter. It is a kind of soil organic matter. It is rich in nutrients and retains moisture in the soil. Humus is the Latin word for "earth" or "ground".
In agriculture, "humus" sometimes also is used to describe mature or natural compost extracted from a woodland or other spontaneous source for use as a soil conditioner. It is also used to describe a topsoil horizon that contains organic matter (humus type, humus form, or humus profile).
Humus has many nutrients that improve the health of soil, nitrogen being the most important. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N) of humus commonly ranges between 8:1 and 15:1 with the median being about 12:1. It also significantly affects the bulk density of soil. Humus is amorphous and lacks the cellular structure characteristic of plants, microorganisms or animals."
Turn the compost over with a spade maybe once a week.
In a month or less you'll have some nicely composted soil, this will be your main substrate.
For the permaculture part especially if the soil in your area is poor, pale in color, hard/clay etc dig that soil away where your planter boxes or sowing fields are going to be. The deeper hole you dig the more soil you need to fill it up, it might take a long time to make enough compost to fill up lots of space but work gradually. Ask someone local with an excavator to come dig some holes for a case of home brew for the easy way out.
So dig a hole at least 30-60cm depth fill up the bottom with logs and branches big leaves whole dead chickens, rotten eggs whatever you want basically it will decompose within months.
So the bottom layer is very dense in nutrients but stuck in logs and decomposing things not bioavailable yet, on top of that add your special black compost soil and heaps of it, stack rocks/build a wood frame around the hole/trench and fill it up with more compost so that the soil level is 20 or more cm above ground level, the soil will breathe trough the rocks/cracks increasing aeration of the roots which may mean that you have to water a bit more but the plants will grow faster for many species. (optional and worth it)
Electro culture antenna could just be a copper or iron pipe stuck into the ground, the higher up it goes the more potential it will carry down.
Next season or after a crop add a new layer of compost to the top soil, additionally the compost can be dissolved in a barrel with rainwater then aerated with an air pump.
The resulting dark liquid can be watered into the beds.
And collect rainwater in barrels or have access to well water for watering, how much water depends on the sun generally every second day test moisture by sticking your finger a few cm deep if its dry, water.
Certain "trap" "ormus" "implosion" devices might increase water retention and quality.
Permaculture is supposed to run on its own if set up right, some tomatoes might fall and rot without you noticing and suddenly more plants come up a while later.
Plant plenty of good seeds and remove weeds, let all the plants flower and reach seed stage collect the seeds in ziplock bags and label them, after using these methods the size of the seeds will increase and their genetics will become more potent, it is worth selecting them based on size and saving the most vital looking ones, veiny vibrant colored seeds.
I also add a healthy amount of Magnetite sand to the compost (paramagnetic soil) a kilogram here and there ought to do it, if you're feeling spicy perform the bion pack process on the magnetite or quartz sand before mixing it in.
Also consider your climate if you are in the tropics you'll have an easier time than up north, If you are in a colder climate maybe a MARS HYDRO TS600 LED Grow Lamp for starting seedlings a month or two before the season starts is a good move.
Heirloom non GMO seeds can be found cheap on Ebay for example.
Also research your seeds and figure out how to sprout them and how much light water etc they like for optimization.
I usually sprinkle too many seeds of many species and let them fight for light while removing the weaker ones and weeds, this approach would lead to more yield per square meter and a more densely packed grow.
That should about cover the basics its really not complicated if you're willing to get your hands dirty.
Tobacco plant in regular local clay soil.
Younger same tobacco plant in the treated soil.
The plants have much deeper color, taste stronger are larger and grow faster.
Good luck!
It is about gathering life force from the surroundings and concentrating them in one spot.
Black sometimes slimy soil can be found in nature around sources of natural water and under/next to huge boulders in some cracks under rocks is often seedless. (no weeds) this soil is very useful partially because of its microbiome and that its already composted humus.
Morning urine should be collected in whatever bottle you want preferably wide mouth lol.
Poop if you want to go all the way but preferably be healthy so you don't excrete poisons. (Like meds and McDonald's)
Azomite for the lazy, Ormus from sea water for people that know how and a mix of both for a wider spectrum of minerals.
If you have space just build a chicken coop and get 5 chicks there is no excuse its the best business you'll ever start for your own health. (collect their poop for compost and eat their eggs, feed them with the garden + scraps and grains)
Collect enough starting matter from the surroundings you have and put the plant matter, natural soil, mineral extracts, Urine, chicken, cow, horse, camel human poop into a 1,5x1,5m open box with walls on both sides and back but not top and front, a simple composter.
It needs to be at least 1x1 meter or the composting won't work as well.
Add a thermostat to the pile and watch the temperature rise to 50-60c, while its "burning" the microbes are tearing everything apart until most of it becomes humus.
"Humus also plays a major role in soil structure and therefore in the circulation and storage of gases and water Humus, the most stable part of organic matter, binds closely with the mineral matrix of the soil and in particular clays, forming structured assemblages commonly called “clay-humic complex” CHC. These particles are globally negatively charged, and together they create an electric field in the soil solution. It is the combination of these electric fields that causes the orientation of the particles and explains why soluble ions such as nitrate, which is also negatively charged, are pushed away from the solid particles, making it highly mobile in the soil allowing it to be so easily dragged along by the soil water. Conversely, positive ions in solution such as calcium or potassium will stay close to the CHC particles where the electric field is the strongest. These particles, through their ability to bind together, structure the soil creating micro and macro porosities, a veritable labyrinth that allows air and water to circulate in the soil. This structure also provides the soil with stability against environmental damage such as: rain, soil compaction caused by the passage of agricultural machinery, etc… “A soil that is well-balanced in organic matter through regular inputs will therefore restructure itself quicker, for example when agricultural machinery passes through” explains Olivier Cor. Organic matter and the associated flora and fauna also give it a more natural resistance to various sources of stress and not just mechanical stress but also natural such as: heavy rainfall, drought, erosion."
Wikipedia on Humus,
"In classical soil science, humus is the dark organic matter in soil that is formed by the decomposition of plant and animal matter. It is a kind of soil organic matter. It is rich in nutrients and retains moisture in the soil. Humus is the Latin word for "earth" or "ground".
In agriculture, "humus" sometimes also is used to describe mature or natural compost extracted from a woodland or other spontaneous source for use as a soil conditioner. It is also used to describe a topsoil horizon that contains organic matter (humus type, humus form, or humus profile).
Humus has many nutrients that improve the health of soil, nitrogen being the most important. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N) of humus commonly ranges between 8:1 and 15:1 with the median being about 12:1. It also significantly affects the bulk density of soil. Humus is amorphous and lacks the cellular structure characteristic of plants, microorganisms or animals."
Turn the compost over with a spade maybe once a week.
In a month or less you'll have some nicely composted soil, this will be your main substrate.
For the permaculture part especially if the soil in your area is poor, pale in color, hard/clay etc dig that soil away where your planter boxes or sowing fields are going to be. The deeper hole you dig the more soil you need to fill it up, it might take a long time to make enough compost to fill up lots of space but work gradually. Ask someone local with an excavator to come dig some holes for a case of home brew for the easy way out.
So dig a hole at least 30-60cm depth fill up the bottom with logs and branches big leaves whole dead chickens, rotten eggs whatever you want basically it will decompose within months.
So the bottom layer is very dense in nutrients but stuck in logs and decomposing things not bioavailable yet, on top of that add your special black compost soil and heaps of it, stack rocks/build a wood frame around the hole/trench and fill it up with more compost so that the soil level is 20 or more cm above ground level, the soil will breathe trough the rocks/cracks increasing aeration of the roots which may mean that you have to water a bit more but the plants will grow faster for many species. (optional and worth it)
Electro culture antenna could just be a copper or iron pipe stuck into the ground, the higher up it goes the more potential it will carry down.
Next season or after a crop add a new layer of compost to the top soil, additionally the compost can be dissolved in a barrel with rainwater then aerated with an air pump.
The resulting dark liquid can be watered into the beds.
And collect rainwater in barrels or have access to well water for watering, how much water depends on the sun generally every second day test moisture by sticking your finger a few cm deep if its dry, water.
Certain "trap" "ormus" "implosion" devices might increase water retention and quality.
Permaculture is supposed to run on its own if set up right, some tomatoes might fall and rot without you noticing and suddenly more plants come up a while later.
Plant plenty of good seeds and remove weeds, let all the plants flower and reach seed stage collect the seeds in ziplock bags and label them, after using these methods the size of the seeds will increase and their genetics will become more potent, it is worth selecting them based on size and saving the most vital looking ones, veiny vibrant colored seeds.
I also add a healthy amount of Magnetite sand to the compost (paramagnetic soil) a kilogram here and there ought to do it, if you're feeling spicy perform the bion pack process on the magnetite or quartz sand before mixing it in.
Also consider your climate if you are in the tropics you'll have an easier time than up north, If you are in a colder climate maybe a MARS HYDRO TS600 LED Grow Lamp for starting seedlings a month or two before the season starts is a good move.
Heirloom non GMO seeds can be found cheap on Ebay for example.
Also research your seeds and figure out how to sprout them and how much light water etc they like for optimization.
I usually sprinkle too many seeds of many species and let them fight for light while removing the weaker ones and weeds, this approach would lead to more yield per square meter and a more densely packed grow.
That should about cover the basics its really not complicated if you're willing to get your hands dirty.
Tobacco plant in regular local clay soil.
Younger same tobacco plant in the treated soil.
The plants have much deeper color, taste stronger are larger and grow faster.
Good luck!
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